Orange Blossom and Neroli

Synonymous with sunshine and the Mediterranean, also weddings, orange blossom is a popular note in perfumery, either in the background as part of a floral perfume bouquet, or as a soliflore.

Image from http://www.marissahyatt.com

In absolute it's slightly animalic, milky and sweet, but often in perfumery it's accompanied by other parts of the orange tree; leaves, twigs and bark (petitgrain) lending a more astringent green scent, also orange itself (from the peel, though aroma-chemicals may be added for a transparent effect to mimic orange juice).

Orange blossom is also referred to as Neroli, and it's true that both orange blossom absolute and neroli are both from the flower petals of the tree. The difference is in extraction method; neroli is from steam distillation, orange blossom absolute from enfleurage which involves steeping the petals in odorless fat.

Neroli is somewhat sharper, more green, though still floral. As mentioned orange blossom absolute is milkier, sweeter and more animalic (i.e. it has similar qualities to jasmine and contains indoles which lend what's known as a fecal aspect which can be enhanced or decreased according to the perfumer's aims). The effect in perfume is a creamy yet tangy floral.

It seems to me that neroli is so often accompanied by orange blossom, or vice versa that it's best to include both together in this post, though I'll highlight the true soliflores where they show up. Neroli has more top note aspects, also it's a stronger scent in many ways - or more noticeable, whereas orange blossom absolute is more a middle or base note - longer lasting and rounder in tone.

There's also a cross-over into the eau de cologne style of perfume - the classic European refreshing toilet water that's popular in hot weather - eau de cologne tends to utilise the orange oil and petitgrain aspects of the orange tree alongside lemon and herbs - more bitter/citric than floral, so I won't include those here.

Nonetheless, many orange blossom or neroli perfumes have an eau de cologne-like tone. So I'll list some noteable orange blossom/neroli perfumes below, ranging from sharper and more citric or fresh, to the more floral sensual perfumes ...

Fresh and uplifting

Aqua Allegoria Nerolia Bianca, by Guerlain
A unisex cologne-like yet floral perfume, this includes fresh bitter aspects of petitgrain and bitter orange alongside neroli and orange blossom. The fact it doesn't contain the classic herbal notes of eau de cologne differentiates it as more of a fresh floral. While it's not particularly unique or unusual, it's very light, with a bittersweet quality that makes it an ideal choice for hot weather.

Knot, by Bottega Veneta
Again this has similar aspects to eau de cologne (lime, lavender and orange)  but peony, rose, tonka and musk round it out to a far more full or complete perfume. Very elegant, and again though it's reminiscent of other orange blossom/neroli perfumes, it holds its own thanks to beautiful balance from top notes to dry-down. This would be ideal in work scenarios, yet it's pretty enough to be an elegant choice for evening too. 

Neroli Portofino, by Tom Ford
This is the first in a range of eau de cologne-like perfumes created by Tom Ford, this is the most classic. To my nose it's a sweeter, stronger version of eau de cologne, combining a floral bouquet of jasmine and orange blossom with herbs and citrics. I tend to perceive Tom Ford perfumes as party-time perfumes - glamorous and amped up - ideal for evening.

Soapy 

Since neroli is often included in soaps for its fresh uplifting qualities, the association with neroli in perfume can often be soapy - clean and fresh from the shower, in effect.

Infusion de Fleur d'Oranger, by Prada
Not very imaginative in style maybe, but nonetheless very easy to wear in its way - Infusion de Fleur d'Oranger veers clearly away from eau de cologne with the addition of a subtle tuberose, but remains quite fresh. It's a soapy white floral, but unlike most classic white floral perfumes it has a clean edge - very fresh-showered in mood. When I've worn this friends have described it as soapy, and assumed that it was actually the smell of soap I'd used. So if you seek an all-day shower-fresh scent, during hots days at work or travelling for example, this will suit

Eau de Néroli Doré, by Hermès  
This has a nice neroli opening, followed by old fashioned soap scent, similar to Savon de Marseilles, with saffron maybe giving it a medicinal touch. It reminds me of the scent of a linen-suited older gentleman you'd encounter somewhere cultural in mainland Europe,  it's pleasant, low key and elegant, if old school in style.

Castile, by Penhaligon's 
Very soapy indeed!

 
Full blooms

Orange Blossom, by Jo Malone
A very pretty orange blossom that's almost a soliflore but freshened and given tang with citrus, its floral aspects heightened with lotus (an aroma chemical that lends a dewy/watery note, alongside fresh juicy clementine). It's day-time in mood, uplifting and nicely balanced though simple in style.


Seville a l'Aube, by L'Artisan
Possibly the most distinct of all the orange blossom perfumes, Seville a l'Aube combines a blast of dewy, heady orange blossom and jasmine alongside honey, tobacco and the fresher aspects of lavender and petitgrain. It feels predominantly floral and sunny but the underlying notes retain freshness, and a waxy note thanks to honey and beeswax. (The perfumer who designed this, Bertrand Duchaufour, followed the instruction of his client who wanted a perfume to remind her of her love affair during a religious festival in Spain during the orange blossom season). I find it uplifting and unusual, it blossoms particularly well in hot weather when its warmer aspects come to the fore.

APOM, by Maison Francis Kurkdjian
APOM stands for 'a piece of me' and was inspired by Kurkdjian's family connections in the Lebanon. It's very floral and uplifting (florals generally tend to be uplifting in mood, due to associations, hence their description as 'euphorics' in aromatherapy)

It's also quite powerful silage-wise, and although it does have an aspect of the middle east in its uplifting ylang and Lebanese cedar alongside orange blossom, it would also be absolutely at home at a posh lunch or wedding. Polished, impactful, pretty and uplifting.

Kurkdjian created the more mainstream Le Parfum for Elie Saab which also contains similarly large and fluffy orange blossoms - it's less woody though, more obviously bright and floral. I personally prefer Le Parfum Intense version which is rounded out with a beeswaxy honey.
 
Fleurs d'Oranger, by Serge Lutens
A powerful orange blossom with its floral aspects heightened by fleshy tuberose. The animalic properties of orange blossom absolute are enhanced with a touch of spicy/sweaty cumin. How much you enjoy this will depend on your enjoyment of big white florals and sweaty notes! I find that the cumin lends this interest - making it less a mainstream style of perfume - perhaps less easy to wear for some, it is very pretty, but the spices (including the fresh woody note of nutmeg) make it either slightly more unisex, or more interesting depending on your perspective.