I refer to this perfume throughout this blog yet haven't dedicated a sole review to it, though it's been a favourite of mine since 2002 or thereabouts. It was launched back in 1997 but the style hasn't aged in my opinion, since smoky or leather perfumes are as popular as ever. Unisex perfumes even more so.
It's rightly perceived as a modern classic, though it's also true to say it's a bit marmite-like in that some folks hate it and others adore it.
I fall into the latter group since I love the scent of anything 'phenolic' - the term used in perfumery to describe smoky or bitter/tarry notes - such as woodsmoke, creosote on fences, coal-tar soap or bitumen and the like. I do actually breathe in deep when a road's being re-surfaced - who knows why each of us enjoy such odd aromas! Worryingly I even like the paraffin scent of firelighters, and stopped using them not only because they're not kind to the environment, but because it's a mildly addictive substance that's really not healthy to inhale!
Returning to the more normal or healthy realms of smoky scents though, Lapsang Souchong tea is what lends Bulgari Black its smoky note (it's the idea of the tea - an aroma chemical - rather than a natural note no doubt in this perfume). Bergamot is also present, so in short this adds up to my favourite loose-tea blend; Two spoons of Earl Grey (bergamot scented) and a quarter teaspoon of Lapsang Souchong = tea bliss.
As fellow appreciators of Lapsang Souchong know, its scent is almost like burnt rubber, and that's no doubt what inspired the car-tyre black rubber of the perfume bottle, also the association with male perfumes (Black is regarded as unisex).
It does have distinct vanilla in drydown though, so depending on how the perfume behaves on skin, it can feel too sweet for some men if they prefer something more traditional, or, the smoky notes can put of women who prefer prettier scents.
This perfume is far from simple though - it's not just the unusual combo of play-dough-like vanilla (distinct to Bulgari perfumes I think) and smoke that makes this perfume stand out; The perfumer or 'nose' who designed it - Annick Mennardo - has balanced it in ways that only the geniuses of the perfume world achieve! She's added a green floral aspect with rich rose and jasmine, into drydown the softness of sandalwood is a subtle presence, adding warmth, oakmoss lends a musky haze alongside a more conventional white musk skin-scent quality.
The effect is contemporary, yet reminiscent of classic perfumery in its balance and abstract French style (though Mennardo is obviously Italian as is the house of Bulgari).
Drydown is soft smoky and salty vanilla - a light musky haze like clean cat fur, and perhaps a distant waft of driftwood fire.
It's a perfume that nearly always attracts compliments, particularly from men, interestingly. Maybe its the smoky tyres and vanilla, conjuring up birthday cake and new car!
Suggestions:
Season - Autumn/Winter
Suited to- evening/informal
Mood/style - soft/skin-scent/intimate/intriguing/unusual
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