Collection Extraordinaire Bois d'Iris, Van Cleef & Arpels

I love woody perfumes and orris/iris, so I was bound to enjoy this.

I also liked Traversee du Bosphore (iris/rose/amber/sweet) which this reminds me of slightly, except that Bois d'Iris is less sweet, far more woody, though soft and floaty like TdB.

This is natural, with a soft yet definite presence. It opens with a very distinct high quality iris/orris note that reminds me of Iris Silver Mist by Lutens, but then becomes more woody, very cedary, also sweet - a bit nutty, like nougat and rice paper.

The general impression is soft and gently elegant. It's one I'd wear if I didn't want to wear something too 'perfumey', for example on holiday in the country it would work beautifully, enhancing the natural smells around you yet lending a very pleasant aura.

If it was a colour it would be soft green or mauve, yet it's also quite sunny and uplifting unlike the more melancholy iris-based perfumes (I love those too, but I think Bois d'Iris is warmer thanks to the sweet, soft woody aspects)

I could imagine an author or composer wearing this while musing in a sunlit library. Lovely stuff!

Suggestions:
Season - Autumn/year round
Suited to- daytime/low-key events/relaxation
Mood/style - relaxed, elegant, gentle, casual

Felanilla, Pierre Guillaume

I can't think of anything more suited to Autumn now it's getting chillier.

I'm immediately reminded of Shalimar, and Musc Ravageur, though this is softer than Shalimar and less animalic than Musc Ravageur. If you've tried those you'll know that this means there's a slightly vintage air to this perfume.

The saffron and hay bring it into more contemporary realms though, the iris adds to these smooth, dusty dry background effects. I also notice cinnamon, possibly clove though they're not listed here.

The drydown is a lovely toasty vanilla/amber and I also notice the banana leaf more in dry down, subtle though it is, which makes it all slightly gourmand, perfect for eating out on an Autumn or Winter evening I think. Lovely on skin or emanating from a cosy wool scarf.

What I most like about this perfume is that it has a warmth and tingly presence without being too heavy or obvious - no loud spiciness as in Opium or Coco, no patchouli/fudge.

It's inspired, easy to wear, quite 'come hither' in its cosy warmth - full bottle worthy as the perfumistas say!


Suggestions:
Season - Autumn/Winter
Suited to- Evening
Mood/style -warm, spicy, sensual, dark, unusual, vintage

Camellia, Aroma M

A gracious, pretty, refined floral scent.

The touch of incense is powdery, like Japanese incense. The florals feel absolutely natural (the rose reminds me of Un Rose by Frederic Malle) but there's a lovely bouquet of florals in Camellia. It does remind me slightly of high quality soap, but the incense makes it softer, more lingering, and it really smells lovely on skin as other reviews have noted.

Porcelain china springs to mind - delicate and luminous. The geranium is subtle, soothing, and the drydown seems to bring out the jasmine and incense.

Sillage quite soft, longevity a few hours, fades to floral, very mildly animalic (jasmine grandiflora maybe?) As with all Aroma M perfumes, this is predominantly composed from natural absolutes (though some aroma chemicals are used to 'open up' the perfume).

Probably my favourite from the Aroma M perfumes so far, though all are distinct and high quality. You can read my interview with Aroma M founder Maria McElroy Here 

Also reviews of more perfumes in her collection Here  and Here 


Suggestions:
Season - Spring/summer/year round
Suited to- daytime/evening events if worn more heavily/any ocassion
Mood/style - elegant, refined, feminine

Hermessence Poivre Samarcande, Hermès

This to me has something in common with Diorama, which also contains caraway, but this is drier, less floral of course. I'd also say it leans a bit towards masculine.

The opening notes are quite sweaty and animalic but pepper is there too giving a nice edge.

It becomes altogether softer after half an hour, less animalic,then the oakmoss starts to do its thing and exudes a lovely hazy dry, sophisticated elegant musk. (in another review ISO E musk was mentioned, I'm not sure I recognise that but this does have a muskiness that's not altogether natural so that must be it, it's not harsh to my nose, but it depends how sensitive you are to synthetic musks)

The oakmoss is definitely what gives this perfume its classic style, but it feels contemporary too - not too complex. Also the woody notes are lovely - the nutty scent and pencil shavings effect of cedar and the dryness of oak, but there's something soft and milky there - what perfumers describe as 'lactonic' I suppose.

All in all, a perfect unisex perfume for those who enjoy woodiness with a bit of complexity. I'm pleased to have discovered this some time after it was released because I love woody perfumes but so many are too harsh, too simple, or not natural.

This is quite lovely, it has a subtle complexity thanks to oakmoss, the caraway is subtle, not too spicy (to my nose anyway) the woods natural.

It seems fairly light, but don't underestimate the carrying effect of oakmoss (or ISO E etc).


Suggestions:
Season - Autumn/Winter
Suited to- daytime/low-key events/
Mood/style - relaxed, elegant, casual

Nirmal, Laboratorio Olfattivo

If you're seeking the hazy perfume mystique of iris Nirmal doesn't quite offer that, it's more the rootiness of iris that you'd find in Iris Silver Mist by Lutens, then the carrot enriches that aspect and violet lends a clear green floral that blends in a way you might call vegetable-like.

Heeley's Iris de Nuit has similar notes, but is totally different - far more poetic, gentle, inky and green in mood. Nirmal is more earthy and autumnal to my nose anyway.

The overall effect is rich, deep, woody and sweet but not at all sugary. Unlike a lot of niche perfumes, it smells like a proper perfume - it's quite abstract, also sophisticated but not heavy or obvious.

I think this perfume would appeal to those who like a classic with contemporary edge. I tend to go for lighter, green irises and the richness of this would only work for me in the deep of winter, but it's lovely, and if you seek depth, elegance, and enjoy woody, rooty perfumes, this is absolutely worth testing. There's something about it that makes me think of leather, suede and dark fruits - which is odd since it has none of those.
For today's tastes I'd say it's fairly gender neutral, neither girly nor macho!

Galop d'Hermes

A moderately powerful Hermes, silage-wise. I'd also say quite sophisticated and feminine - maybe due to a powerful rose and noticeable osmanthus which gives that soapy bright floral (rose) and peachy softness (osmanthus) combined.

The leather is noticeable up front - dry, slightly suedey and very nice, but it does fade a bit into dry down after an hour, lending a softly animalic background. (For more on leather perfumes, you can read my earlier post Here if you like).

Mostly what's wafting up from my arm is rose. The osmanthus and suedey leather give it a ladylike aura, almost vintage in feel, I think.

If you can imagine a more feminised Cuir de Lancome, more powdery and a little more sweet, that's quite close.

To compare to L'Artisan's Dzing! I'd say it's more floral, more classically feminine, probably less sweet.

It speaks of a well groomed woman, I'd probably prefer something a bit more casual, less 'money' in feel, maybe more unusual, but this feels very good quality

Silage and longevity good to moderate.


Suggestions:
Season - Autumn/year round
Suited to- all occasions - depending on how much sprayed.
Mood/style - elegant, poised, refined

New short reviews ...

Though it's early Autumn I've indulged in a little spring-clean of this blog - among other things some of the links are missing from my 'A to Z of perfumes'.


Also, on Fragrantica I have reviews dating all the way back to 2007! So what I've decided to do is add some of the more interesting reviews from my Fragrantica page, but they'll be short and sweet in contrast to my usual long rambles.

For those who enjoy a long ramble though, you can still look up those longer musings in the 'A to Z' list from the menu above.

Hope you'll enjoy all the new short perfume reviews coming up! ...