Bulgari Black, Bulgari

Yes, another review of Bulgari's Black to add to many more out there!

I refer to this perfume throughout this blog yet haven't dedicated a sole review to it, though it's been a favourite of mine since 2002 or thereabouts. It was launched back in 1997 but the style hasn't aged in my opinion, since smoky or leather perfumes are as popular as ever. Unisex perfumes even more so.

It's rightly perceived as a modern classic, though it's also true to say it's a bit marmite-like in that some folks hate it and others adore it.

 I fall into the latter group since I love the scent of anything 'phenolic' - the term used in perfumery to describe smoky or bitter/tarry notes - such as woodsmoke, creosote on fences, coal-tar soap or bitumen and the like. I do actually breathe in deep when a road's being re-surfaced - who knows why each of us enjoy such odd aromas! Worryingly I even like the paraffin scent of firelighters, and stopped using them not only because they're not kind to the environment, but because it's a mildly addictive substance that's really not healthy to inhale!

Returning to the more normal or healthy realms of smoky scents though, Lapsang Souchong tea is what lends Bulgari Black its smoky note (it's the idea of the tea - an aroma chemical - rather than a natural note no doubt in this perfume). Bergamot is also present, so in short this adds up to my favourite loose-tea blend; Two spoons of Earl Grey (bergamot scented) and a quarter teaspoon of Lapsang Souchong = tea bliss.

As fellow appreciators of Lapsang Souchong know, its scent is almost like burnt rubber, and that's no doubt what inspired the car-tyre black rubber of the perfume bottle, also the association with male perfumes (Black is regarded as unisex).

It does have distinct vanilla in drydown though, so depending on how the perfume behaves on skin, it can feel too sweet for some men if they prefer something more traditional, or, the smoky notes can put of women who prefer prettier scents.

This perfume is far from simple though - it's not just the unusual combo of play-dough-like vanilla (distinct to Bulgari perfumes I think) and smoke that makes this perfume stand out; The perfumer or 'nose' who designed it - Annick Mennardo - has balanced it in ways that only the geniuses of the perfume world achieve! She's added a green floral aspect with rich rose and jasmine, into drydown the softness of sandalwood is a subtle presence, adding warmth, oakmoss lends a musky haze alongside a more conventional white musk skin-scent quality.

The effect is contemporary, yet reminiscent of classic perfumery in its balance and abstract French style (though Mennardo is obviously Italian as is the house of Bulgari).

Drydown is soft smoky and salty vanilla - a light musky haze like clean cat fur, and perhaps a distant waft of  driftwood fire.

It's a perfume that nearly always attracts compliments, particularly from men, interestingly. Maybe its the smoky tyres and vanilla, conjuring up birthday cake and new car!

Suggestions:
Season - Autumn/Winter
Suited to- evening/informal
Mood/style - soft/skin-scent/intimate/intriguing/unusual

Galop d'Hermes

A moderately powerful Hermes, silage-wise. I'd also say quite sophisticated and feminine - maybe due to a powerful rose and noticeable osmanthus which gives that soapy bright floral (rose) and peachy softness (osmanthus) combined.

The leather is noticeable up front - dry, slightly suedey and very nice, but it does fade a bit into dry down after an hour, lending a softly animalic background. (For more on leather perfumes, you can read my earlier post Here if you like).

Mostly what's wafting up from my arm is rose. The osmanthus and suedey leather give it a ladylike aura, almost vintage in feel, I think.

If you can imagine a more feminised Cuir de Lancome, more powdery and a little more sweet, that's quite close.

To compare to L'Artisan's Dzing! I'd say it's more floral, more classically feminine, probably less sweet.

It speaks of a well groomed woman, I'd probably prefer something a bit more casual, less 'money' in feel, maybe more unusual, but this feels very good quality

Silage and longevity good to moderate.


Suggestions:
Season - Autumn/year round
Suited to- all occasions - depending on how much sprayed.
Mood/style - elegant, poised, refined

Leather Perfumes

The aroma of leather in perfumes has been endlessly re-imagined over the last century; conjuring up everything from diesel fumes to softly scented gloves. It can be a dominant feature, creating an unmistakably leather fragrance, or a subtle accent that lends a deeper, smokier tone

Creed (an English perfume company) were the first to create a leather perfume - Royal English Leather - in 1781, and in those days this would be intended as a masculine fragrance reminiscent of riding boots, horse-riding and other such virile pursuits. Then in 1924, Coco Chanel, always aiming to challenge tradition, created Cuir de Russie for women (now very much a unisex, or a perfume many would  perceive as masculine)

There are numerous ways a perfumer might create the idea of leather. For example Birch Tar was used to cure leather in Russia and lends a phenolic, acrid note not dissimilar to that found in coal-tar soap. Styrax is a resin which gives a slightly softer, sweeter leather impression, saffron in combination with other notes suggests leather, labdanum resin can also smell 'leathery' as can castoreum, which was originally sourced from badgers but now produced synthetically. Castoreum has a urinous quality which in small amounts, or blended with other notes lends a skin-scent quality. (All the above are usually, but not always synthetically created aroma chemicals).

This association with warm skin and luxury is a large part of leather's appeal in perfumery - variously sensuous, comforting, animalic or erotic, depending on how it's handled by the perfumer.

Perfumers enhance aspects of these notes to conjure up a range of moods, so the most successful leather perfumes evoke ideas of leather such as the scent of luxury handbags that retain notes of floral perfume or make-up, or worn car seats and an air of travel.

The following perfumes are among the most evocative leathers..

Soft, suede-like leather

Cuir de Lancome, by Lancome

My grandfather made teddy bears after he retired from engineering - I remember bags of suedey fur around his house and the leather of Cuir de Lancome reminds me of that cosy, soft smell.

It opens with a rich, warm citrus complexity not dissimilar to Shalimar's top notes, much softer though. The tangy warm feel develops into a dusty/sweet quality (that could be both hawthorn and saffron) and there’s an anisic note that smells like liquorice. Alongside the birch tar and styrax notes the effect is chewy and leathery, almost gourmand (I'm reminded of a chocolate flavoured liquorice all-sort!)

Cuir de Lancome is complex yet cosy and easy to wear, sweet but quite unisex. It’s lightly musky but not animalic, more sensual than erotic. It's very suited to autumn, but I think it could be worn any time of year, especially evenings, for a luxuriously soft, warm and elegant aura. Everyone will want to cuddle you!

In similar vein - Cuir Ottoman by Parfum d'Empire is a soft leather, slightly less suedey than Cuir de Lancome but with a warm, treacle-like sweetness in dry-down.

Daim Blond, by Serge Lutens

Even more suede-like than Cuir de Lancome, Daim Blond combines apricots and iris for a soft and sweet skin-scent. The suede feel is achieved synthetically through the aroma-chemical 'suederol' which is also present in Tom Ford's Tuscan Leather and many other contemporary perfumes. For me, suederol smells slightly synthetic; something doesn't convince my nose - a lack of complexity perhaps - real leather has a very complex smell which is why people love it.

Russian Leather

Cuir de Russie, by Les Exclusifs de Chanel 

If I'm to be completely honest, which I aim to be in these reviews, I must confess that for me, all the other leather perfumes might as well not exist as long as Cuir de Russie exists!

I'm a fan of 'phenolic' notes; barbecued meat and creosote-soaked fences, coal-tar soap and the scent of burning driftwood. I love this acrid smoky/sweet/salty aroma. Not that Cuir de Russie is as one-dimensional as any of the above smells. 

Birch Tar (traditionally used to cure leather in Russia) provides this effect, but this is perfection in terms of balance. Cuir de Russie's leather is simultaneously clean and dirty, with elegant iris (orris) and floral soapiness, tingling with a light touch of animalic castoreum.

There is no other leather perfume out there, to my knowledge, which so perfectly conjures up the scent of actual leather, also the idea of old world luxuriant travel, not a hint of Ryan Air! It's been compared to the leather seats of a Bentley and there is a slight touch of smoke which makes this less leather handbag and somehow more streamlined. Though originally marketed towards women, it's absolutely unisex, and was created by Chanel's most talented nose, Ernest Beaux, in the 20s.

Cuir Pleine Fleur, by James Heeley

Far less well known since James Heeley is a relative newcomer and more niche than mainstream. Cuir Pleine Fleur is another convincing leather with castoreum element to create a more animalic feel, this is balanced elegantly with violet leaf, then into dry-down muskier notes prevail alongside lime and vetiver which makes for a more masculine scent, to my nose. Somehow I imagine expensive man-bags and a metrosexual man about town

Les Heures de Cartier: La Treizieme Heure XIII, by Cartier enhances the smoky aspects and is slightly darker, or earthier with the addition of patchouli. 

Fireside, by Sonoma Scent Studio takes this smoky feel further, we're in camp-fire territory more than luxury leather. Lovely, but not so easily wearable perhaps

A touch of leather

There are literally hundreds of perfumes out there which feature notes of leather,

for obvious reasons - leather has a luxurious feel so its addition to perfumes makes for a more expensive smell. Having said that, it can also lend a slightly 'hard' edge to perfumes, and since sweet fruity florals are the most popular category for young women, not everyone welcomes the leather effect.

Many of the most classic and iconic perfumes feature notes of leather, such as -

Shalimar by Guerlain, Miss Dior by Dior, Diorling by Dior, Chanel No. 19, Habanita by Molinard

Lastly, some contemporary perfumes with a touch of leather -

Bulgari Black, Cuir Mauresque by Lutens, Dzing by L'Atisan, Bottega Veneta by Bottega Veneta, Kelly Caleche by Hermes, In the Library by CB I Hate Perfume