 |
| 'Red Boats, White Sun'. Rose Strang 2012 |
Rahele, launched in 2016 by Neela Vermeire, was inspired by the famous 17th century French travel writers Tavernier, Bernier and Thévenot and the idea of an 'east meets west' Europe/Orient perfume aesthetic.
I immediately think of colonialism and E.M. Forster novels with such concepts! But in this case it's from an Indian perspective, since Neela Vermeire is herself Indian.
Vermeire created
Rahele in collaboraiton with the rockstar 'nose' of perfumery, Bertrand Duchaufour, but I can sense her influence strongly here since Duchaufour perfumes are usually very characterful, with notes that recognisably stand out, whereas
Rahele is more reserved and speaks of grace and balance.
If you want to unpick it, I suppose the 17th cent. 'west' aspect is here in the form of oakmoss (always present in chypre perfumes and very much a French influence), violet and violet leaf (characteristically temperate zone, slightly aquatic, green and 'cool' in tone) and iris; powdery, refined and mysterious, and again absolutely characteristic of classic European perfumes.
Think Chanel classics such as No 19, 28 La Pausa, Cuir de Russie - all of which feature prominent iris, though going back much farther, iris featured prominently in ancient Greek and Roman perfumery.
We're well accustomed nowadays to the combination of Oriental and European perfume notes,
though these perfumes tend to open with the lighter citrics and florals, drying down to an ambery vanilla base. Rahele offers somthing different; a smooth blended quality throughout from start to finish in perfect balance.
The key to this might be in the way green notes of violet and violet leaf harmonise with the green intensity of cardamom. The powderiness of iris with the suede-like texture of osmanthus (a classically Japanese flower) in addition to woody, powdery sandalwood. Add the scent of mandarin, to blend with the apricot fruitiness of osmanthus and the whole blends together in a beautiful and quite unique way.
Osmanthus seems
central to this composition, the scent of the flower is a perfume in
itself really, it's smooth, golden, savoury/sweet - almost like apricot
tea if you can imagine such a thing, but it's mostly the sense of
texture that makes it such a lovely addition to perfume; it's very
soft-edged (though not delicate) and it's often described as having a
suede or leather-like scent.
Though this perfume is quite unique, it does in fact remind
me of the dry down of Coco Chanel (though not the modern-day version which
has hardly anything in common with the original 80s perfume).Those of you who were teenage or older in the 80s will remember those two pillars of 80s perfumery: Opium by Yves Saint Laurent and Coco by Chanel. I always prefered the latter, because although it shared all the spicy ambery impact of Opium, it was considerably softened by rose and, similarly to Rahele, featured a generous helping of osmanthus. I have very fond memories of wearing Coco, especially in my late teens when I lived in Greece with my boyfriend at the time, who was re-building an ancient village in the hills of Paros over-looking the vivid blue Aegean.
 |
| 'Blue Bay', Rose Strang 2012 |
We lived on the building site in a long brick building with rough cement floor and a huge hammock bed, but in the midst of this (cough) charming rural scene, I kept my make-up and bottle of Coco Chanel in a little wall-niche on a slab of polished Paros marble! Maybe its powerful aroma helped keep the moths and lizards at bay! Anyway, by the time I returned to Scotland in the late 80s, this Baroque and dark style of perfume was making way for the minimalist chic of CK One and Issey Miyake's L'eau d'Issey. (I never did love those aquatic-style perfumes!).
Into dry down Rahele is softer, definitely more powdery than Coco, but that suits me fine since Coco in eau de parfum, as it was, would blow your socks off in comparison to the lighter styles of perfume worn today! Rahele is also slightly sweeter, and if I could change anything about this perfume it would be that ubiquitous vanilla dry-down, thankfully though, the osmanthus is still very present, ading its soft suede texture and warmth.
I haven't yet mentioned that Rahele is diferent in style from Vermeire's earlier launches, of which I've tried just one - Trayee. But her debut perfumes were absolutely India-oriented, in fact Trayee reminded me of kulfi ice-cream (she really does do wonderful things with cardamom!) though against a backdrop of beautiful sandalwood and incense.
Rahele appeals to me far more than Trayee ultimately though, probably as I've never really been drawn to gourmand style perfumes, however authentic and classy.
As summer mellows towards Autumn, I really can't think of a lovelier perfume than Rahele right now, with its golden apricoty osmanthus, dusted with soft green powder and spice.
 |
| Autumn pond reflections, Rose Strang 2011 |
