Variations on perfume classics, part 3 (Femme)

This is Part 3 of a series of five posts in which I'll recommend variations on a classic. Today it's Femme by Rochas. The idea is to explore perfumes which feel like modern-day versions of Femme, or perfumes with similarities.

(In part 1 I explored Shalimar,  in part 2, Joy, and in the next two posts I'll explore No 5 and Chanel 19.


Femme was created in Paris during the war in 1943. The 'nose' behind the fragrance was Edmond Roudnitska, who's now regarded as something of a legend in the perfume industry, which is as much to do with his innovatory approach as his talent for creating beautifully balanced classics of perfumery.

Most people will be aware of at least one of the following: Femme, Diorama, Eau d'Hermes, Eau Fraiche, Diorissimo, Eau Sauvage, Diorella and, released posthumously by his son through perfume company Frederic Malle, Le Parfum de Therese. (If you're interested in reading a more in-depth post about Roudnitska, here's a post I created last year - Roudnitska.)

In later years, Roudnitska's perfumes became more minimal, more in keeping with the streamlined sixties and Dior's clean-cut monochrome designs, then the seventies when people began to favour a more casual, outdoorsy style.

It makes sense, though, that one of his first, and ever popular perfumes, embodied the idea of abundance - a lush harvest of fruits, woods, spices, musk and leather. For me, Femme is the quintessential perfume of Autumn and the idea of abundance is also subtly echoed in the curved bottle that suggests the female form.

Like Joy, and Shalimar before it, this perfume was targeted toward women who sought an air of sophisticated elegance. It's interesting perhaps to speculate on the fact that in this era, young women too aspired to this sophistication, poise and mystique.



The ingenue style embodied so elegantly by women such as Audrey Hepburn arrived in the 60s and we can imagine Hepburn exuding the white, radiant chic of Diorissimo, whereas Mae West and Sophia Loren, who were both the 'faces' of Femme in its advertisements, are far more suited to Femme's lush warmth.

Roudnitska created Femme in the midst of WW2, and to me this perfume, taken in this context, poignantly suggests a longing for security, or a carefree life of pleasure while everything around was in chaos -  a fact emphasised by the setting in which it was created:

“Let me tell you, I created Femme in 1943 in Paris during the worst days of the war in a building that had a rubbish dump on one side and a paint factory on the other,” Roudnitska

With Femme, Roudnitska wanted to create a thing of beauty, an escape from brutality and a celebration of everything good in life.

It's a perfume I've long been familiar with, because my mum wore it a lot in the 70s, then sought other perfumes when the original Femme was reformulated in the late 80s due to the restriction on oakmoss. The latest version, brought out in 2013, relies on cumin for the spicy, musky notes, and some find this aspect slightly heavy-handed. The general tone is still Femme-like - autumnal and warm, but the lovely suede-like leather isn't there.

A year or so ago, I tracked down two pre-80s versions of Femme for my mum. Both retained the original character, with the slightly later vintage most resembling the Femme my mum would have worn. She was delighted to rediscover Femme, and in fact this sparked a renewed enjoyment of perfume!


Before I recommend perfumes with a similar mood, these are the original Femme's notes: Apricot, plum, cinnamon, peach, bergamot, rosewood, lemon, rosemary, carnation, iris, jasmine, clove, ylang, rose, leather, amber, patchouli, musk, benzoin, vanilla, oakmoss.

Phew!

Contemporary perfumes similar in style to Femme..

As with the two previous classics Joy and Shalimar, there's nothing quite like Femme these days; it's a classic complex blend in a grand French style, but there are quite a few perfumes that share aspects, or recall Femme's warm autumnal mood..

Classics of the same era or earlier might include Mitsouko by Guerlain , but though that's autumnal and complex, the mood is more haunting. I recently discovered a few contemporary takes on the classic style by indie perfume company DSH Perfumes, which use a high amount of naturals. In particular Mirabella, which reminds me of spicy autumn leaves alongside tart plum, and Mata Hari, which recalls an earlier vintage of Femme, with darker, woodier notes.

Serge Luten's Feminite du Bois, which centres around a lovely rich cedarwood, has echoes of Femme and shares many similar classic fruity notes - plum, cinammon, peach and musk, but the feel of the perfume is simpler, perhaps earthier and less mysterious.

 If you love Femme's suede-like leather, then you might enjoy Lancome's Cuir de Lancome. I offered a sample of this to my mum, and though I say so myself it was an inspired choice as she went on to acquire a full bottle! It doesn't smell like Femme, but it has a similarly sophisticated, rich, warm aura, yet more contemporary.

Taken in a more indulgent direction, the rich ,complex, gourmand aspects of Femme are echoed in Cartier's Le Baiser du Dragon. I love this rich woody, dark chocolate/boozy perfume, even though it's not really my style! It's very comforting and has a lingering mysterious musk that recalls classic perfumery. Some people hate it and find it too complicated, but it's worth a try if you like the idea of a rich, indulgent, winter-style gourmand.

In a lighter more effervescent direction, Yves Saint Laurent's Yvresse (formerly called Champagne) is a fruity chypre that's remained very popular since its release in 1993. It shares Femme's fruity/spicy elements, but it's far sharper and lighter. It might appeal to fruity chypre perfume lovers in summer, but it is a divider of taste so test first! From the same decade, Shiraz by Natura features autumn fruits and spices and is not disimilar to Luten's Feminite du Bois, which also brings me to Dior's Dolce Vita, one of my own favourites, like a sunnier version of Feminite du Bois (though its recent reformulation lacks depth).

Out of interest, it's well worth acquiring a sample of Frederic Malle's Le Parfum de Therese, as mentioned earlier, this is a posthumous release (by Roudnitska's son, Michel) as it has all the elements of a classic Roudnitska from the spice and leather notes of Femme to the summery overripe melon of Diorella. 

And so we come full circle back to Roudnitska himself. Le Perfum de Therese was never released in his lifetime because it was made exclusively for his wife, Therese. Such a romantic gesture!


 
 

Variations on perfume classics, part 2 (Joy)

This is Part 2 of a series of five posts in which I'll recommend variations on a classic. Today it's Joy by Jean Patou. The idea is to explore perfumes which feel like modern-day versions of Joy, or perfumes with similarities.

(In part 1 I explored Shalimar, you can view the post Here  and in the next 3 posts I'll explore No 5, Chanel 19 and Femme)

Compared with the others I've included in this classic series, Joy by Jean Patou (created by perfumer Henri Alméras) is the biggest divider of taste. This has a lot to do with the inclusion of civet, which when added to a high percentage of high quality jasmine, equals musky!

Reputed to contain 10,000 jasmine flowers (both Sambac and Grandiflorum) and the petals of 300 roses, Joy is the opposite of minimalist chic. Launched during the depression in 1929 its lush decadance and high price was a counter-intuitive move by Jean Patou (who already had a high profile as a fashion designer).

His designs were popular with American high society, but when the Wall Street Crash hit hard, his fortunes plummeted.
But it was perfume (as a taste of slightly more affordable luxury) that kept the house of Patou afloat, and given that Patou died in 1936, not long after Joy's launch, perhaps creating this excessively rich perfume (described by fashion columnist Elsa Maxwell at the time as as "the costliest perfume in the world") was his swan song.

1933 - the end of prohibition on alcohol in the US

Looked at from this perspective, Joy might not be so much a vulgar statement of status and wealth, as a gesture of carefree, even reckless joy in the face of his own loss, which was reflected in the lives of many, rich and poor, during the depression of the 1930s. Whatever the case, it worked, since Joy was extremely popular






I must admit that my first whiff of joy was not exactly, erm, joyful! I'd sprayed a little on my wrist as I perused the gleaming shelves of Jenner's perfume department in Edinburgh and I'd forgotten all about it, distracted as I was by various new and intriguing perfumes to sniff. 

Then something caught my attention..'is that the smell of a men's urinal'? I wondered to myself, before locating the origin of the offensive odour to my wrist. I muttered to myself  'so this is what they mean when they say 'animalic''

Patou coat design

My experience of perfume told me that these civet notes would calm to a warm hum, blending with the abstract floral bouquet (which includes subtle notes of fresh honeysuckle and tuberose, with sandalwood emerging into drydown)

It struck me as the perfume of a very wealthy lady, bedecked in ankle-length furs down to her crocodile skin shoes, impeccably, if scarily well-groomed. The one thing Joy is not, is casual.

Like many rich floral classics, I can appreciate its complexity and quality. Also there's nothing of Chanel's bourgeois minimal tight-lipped aura here either. Joy clearly doesn't give a shit how others perceive her!

Humour aside though, the version I'd tested was the eau de toilette, and it was only when I tried the eau de parfum that I got the full sense of Joy. There's always noticable civet (noticable that is, if your nose isn't anosmic to it, many people simply don't smell musky notes). The edp drydown is lovely - long, long lasting velvety rose/sandalwood/musk. And in fact the touches of honeysuckle, lily and rose, all quite soapy florals, counteract civet and rich jasmine in the heart of this generous and abundant perfume.


Contemporary perfumes similar in style to Joy..

Flankers
There are, as with most classics, many varieties of Joy, not just edt, edp and parfum, but new riffs on the floral bouquet such as Eau de Joy and Joy Forever. They could be of interest for different seasons, since Joy edp is probably too heady for summer (or certainly for hot summer days). 

Similar classics include Van Cleef and Arpel's First - another aldehydic ladylike floral which could appeal to those who enjoy Joy!

Thinking about a contemporary equivalent is interesting, there's not really anything comparable exactly. However, I'm thinking of warm, floral ladylike perfumes with a musky element, and Annick Goutal's beautiful Songes springs to mind. It's more relaxed than Joy, perhaps one to wear on holiday, especially as its white floral bouquet includes exotic florals such as Frangipani and ylang as well as jasmine. The jasmine is quite animalic, not so much urinous, as slightly humid or sweaty in feel.

If it's the rich civetous floral abundance of Joy you seek, try Amouage perfumes such as Ubar, or Gold, both of which feature rich complex floral/musk bouquets. Gold is more ladylike, plus it echoes Joy's rich rose/jasmine/musk blend, Ubar is more animalic and woody, both are perfect dressy-up evening perfumes. Or try the animalic, heady Rubj by Vero Profumo (though it's spicy as well as floral)

If you crave high quality jasmine (and it must be said that to enjoy Joy you must love jasmine since it contains a high percentage of both grandiflora and sambac varieties!) then you might like to experiment with perfumes such as A La Nuit by Serge Lutens (a bright, yet slightly fecal blend of authentic jasmines) or Bruno Acampora's Jasmin T (the more urinous Grandiflora).  

Jasmine T is a one-note sort of perfume, it's probably worth trying a sample just to experience that aspect of

animalic jasmine in isolation. Of the two I prefer A La Nuit, but though there is a lot of jasmine at first spray, it does calm to a pleasant jasmine musk with a hint of clove.

For an uplifting, yet heady jasmine, try Montale's Jasmine Full - it's mostly about authentic jasmine, but contains the brighter, soapy notes of honeysuckle and orange blossom

Another perfume perhaps worth trying in this vein is Amaranthine by Penhaligon's - a musky, milky white floral with hints of green leaves.

Variations on perfume classics, part 1 (Shalimar)

This is Part 1 of a series of seven posts in which I'll recommend variations on a classic, starting today with Shalimar by Guerlain. The idea is to explore perfumes which feel like modern-day versions of Shalimar, or perfumes with similarities.

(In the next 6 posts I'll explore  Joy, Femme, No 5, Chanel 19,  Miss Dior 1 and Miss Dior 2 )

Well established classics can have powerful associations in other's minds (not always positive) which is why many women prefer to update their perfume choices, if they can find something of similar appeal. Then again, attachment to perfume can become quite emotional, associated as it is with happy memories to the wearer, so that's what this series will be all about - if you love a certain classic perfume, but would like to try something different from time to time, which contemporary version might suit you?

There must be reasons for Shalimar's enduring appeal. It's partly marketing of course. Just take a look at this recent avertisement - epic doesn't begin to describe its grandiliquent dimensions! It refers to the Indian legend that inspired Shalimar, i.e. Shah Jahan's love for his wife, (or one of them) Mumtaz Mahal, which inspired him to build the Taj Mahal in her honour after she died.

Shalimar's enduring appeal is also partly because it was the first Western perfume to incorporate elements of classic Oriental perfumes - i.e. the warm woody sweet resin blends known as amber

Aimé Guerlain

In 1925, perfumer Aimé Guerlain took this warmth and sweetness further, with the addition of a newly invented synthetic vanilla in combination with natural vanilla extract.

This, combined with notes of leather, intense citric top notes and animalic musk, was what made Shalimar completely unique.


It was the Tom Ford's Black Orchid of its day and 'it girls' or flappers of the 20s could surround themselves in a haze of Shalimar and  feel they'd been transformed into an alluring kohl-eyed Theda Bara!

The aura or concept of Shalimar is one of mystery and dark seduction, yet in contrast to the other perfumes I'll be exploring in this series, it's also ultimately what's known as a 'comfort-scent'. What could be more comforting than the scent of home baking, or delicious creme brulee? When you think about it, it's a very French riff on an Oriental theme, kind of like a dinner date where your lover begins to confuse you with gourmet dessert!

Make no mistake though, Shalimar's message isn't as simple as, say, Britney Spear's Fantasy with that perfume's candy floss and fruit sundae sweetness. Shalimar's classic abstract floral bouquet and brisk leather notes remind us this is in fact a lady, not a cup cake.

Shalimar is one of those classic Guerlain perfumes that take you on a long journey. Those familiar with it know how delicious the far dry down is, and also how weirdly bitter the tarry leather/citrus opening notes appear to the contemporary nose!



Contemporary perfumes similar in style to Shalimar..

Flankers
There are any number of flanker versions and variations of Shalimar by Guerlain. Obviously Guerlain realised that though this is much loved, some might find it dated, so there are versions that have more vanilla, more citrus, more iris, and so on. Some far more expensive, some less so. The basic eau de parfum can usually be found for as little as £20 on some websites, retail price around £48 (for 50ml). Many people seek the vintage, which reputedly is more complex and animalic, but is risky as top notes can disappear, so buy from a reputable source, such as surrendertochance.com

Or try these niche, contemporary perfumes which are comparable to Shalimar. Niche perfumery often favours richer, less synthetic perfumes than mainstream offerings...

Miller Harris Fleur Oriental
Like a lighter version of Shalimar - warm, ambery, sweet, doesn't have the intense bergamot, it does have Shalimar's spicy notes (clove) and its powdery quality (thanks to added heliotrope). If you want less powder, try this one..
Aroma M, Geisha Noire - less citrus, more woody, gets to a dry down that feels similar to Shalimar's delicious torched vanilla/brown sugar and musk combination. Complex, high quality naturals used alongside synthetics. The longevity of Geisha Noire easily rivals that of Shalimar. Vaguely similar, but with less of a natural feel, is Parfumerie Generale's much loved Felanilla.

If it's the sensuous musk aspect you enjoy, try Frederic Malle's Musk Ravageur, which has subtler citrus notes than Shalimar, and less complex vanilla, but a very similar salty civet-like vanilla/musk. One review described it as smelling like an animalic Palmer's Cocoa Butter, which is not far wrong! I wouldn't say it smells like Shalimar but it shares facets. It's a lighter skin scent though.

Some say there's a baby powder aspect to Shalimar, I'd agree, it's subtle but there and this effect is usually thanks to a combination of powdery iris and amber/vanilla among other things. If you like this particular aspect, you might enjoy older perfumes such as L. T Piver's Heliotrope Blanc, Lorenzo Villoressi's Teint de Neige, or the recently released Dahlia Noir by Givenchy. (I happen to like Dahlia Noir, though it's seen as a generic mainstream and there's nothing very noir about it to be honest!). One other perfume (one of my own favourites) that some find shares facets of Shalimar, is Bulgari's Black - a unisex salty/smoky vanilla with amber, leather and bergamot notes.

It has to be said that few of these perfumes (with the possible execption of Geisha Noire) have Shalimar's sheer complexity - citrus/leather/vanilla/florals/spice/patchouli/musk, but it's that very complexity which makes it unique, and at the same time, such a classic in style. The complexity is the feature that makes it slightly 'old school', but as with all classics, the dry down when it arrives is often the best part, and the aspect that knocks spots off many contemporary mainstream perfumes.

In Part Two, I'll be exploring variations on the classic animalic floral Joy, by Jean Patou.

(My own bottle of Shalimar edp, below. Not often worn, but much enjoyed when it is, especially on a chilly winter's evening)

Cool Perfumes

'Cool' as in cooling for hot weather - I'm loving today's mini heatwave!


I posted a feature last summer on perfumes for hot weather, you can read it Here

I don't have too many to add to those choices, they're still some of my favourites, and today I'm wearing Prada's Infusion de Fleur d'Oranger - an uplifting soapy, not too sweet orange blossom.

Other perfumes I'd add to those on last year's list are Kelly Caleche in edt by Hermes - a refreshing grapefruit/floral with underlying leather notes. I'm also finding some of the Middle East-inspired Oud perfumes appealing. That dry, smoky woodiness is also most refreshing in hot weather - not disimilar in effect to vetiver perfumes. One of my favourites is MFK's Silk Mood, which opens on a beautiful light, sweet rose and develops its more Oud-yness into drydown.

Aroma M ~ Interview with founder/perfumer Maria McElroy

At last! I have time to post the email interview with Maria McElroy, director and perfumer of Aroma M perfumes.

It's taken a wee while as I've been busy painting for an exhibition about to launch next month.

It's so nice to finally sit down, with a glass of wine (wearing a dab of Aroma M Geisha Noire)  to indulge in some perfume exploration and musings. 

This year, Aroma M celebrate 20 years in the business. So warm congratulations to Maria, her success is well deserved,  because as a niche perfumer she brings an individual creativity, love and dedication to her work that's apparent when you experience the rich diversity, depth and quality of the perfumes, which I wrote about in an earlier post Here

Without further ado, let's meet Maria McElroy..

Rose: Maria, firstly thanks so much for taking time to answer some questions. I’m very curious about the perfumer’s process and inspiration behind the perfumes. 

When I first encountered Aroma M online, I loved the visual aesthetic and the influence of Japanese culture, as I’ve always liked traditional and contemporary Japanese prints and drawings.  

I know you lived there for some years, so can you tell me a little about why you moved there, and how you found living in Japan?

Maria: Rose, thank you for the opportunity and I have really enjoyed our collaboration and learning more about your art.

I went to Japan after graduating from art school. It originally was intended as a kind of world trip with no time line, first to Asia and then to Europe, ending in Berlin. 

It was love at first sight for me and Japan, and I ended up staying and living there for seven years. I adored my time living in Japan; every day was an inspiration and adventure. Even though the culture is so very different from mine growing up in the states, I felt almost immediately at home. The way of living and aesthetic was all encompassing for me, and left a deep impression.
 

R: I’ve heard about the intriguing Japanese incense ceremony where people respond to the scent of incense with a spontaneous poem or haiku. (This sounds mildly stressful, unless you have a talent for poetry!) Can you tell us anything about the ceremony and were you ever a participant or observer? 

M: Incense ceremony, “kodo” the way of scent was my first foray into perfume. 

  

It is very rarefied, a kind of game that was originally played in the “Haien” era court, over a 1000 years ago. 

It is much like the tea ceremony in many ways, you must wear kimono and it takes place in a traditional Japanese “tatami” mate room.  

There are set rules and very specific ways to follow the ceremony. 

Once you are in that atmosphere, for me I was transported into this other place, it was not stressful. “Kodo” has a bit of the Zen mind, where you are perfectly present and in the moment, so everything just flows. That said it is difficult, they say it takes 10 years to start to really understand and be proficient. I still have a long way to go!

R: Can you tell me more about why you wanted to focus on creating perfume? 

M:When I returned to the states after living in Japan, I really wasn’t sure how I would use all my experiences. 

At that time there were almost no small perfume lines, so it took a leap of faith to step into the perfume world. I honestly didn't give it too much thought. I started to bottle some fragrances in my house, and a friend who had a store saw them one day and wanted to stock them. 

The next thing I knew I had orders and boxes everywhere and had to find a separate space for aroma That is how it all started without a lot of thought and here I am 20 years later!
  

R: Learning any art form is a challenge; I find there are usually a few tears and frustrations along the way! Not to mention launching your work, raising interest and making an actual living from it. 

How did you train as a perfumer and what were the challenges? Were there people who were helpful mentors, or supportive to the process?

M: My background is in Aromatherapy. I received a degree in Australia, so all my perfumes have the distinct use of essential oils. 

M: For the most part, the creative process of the perfumes and packaging is very fun for me. I love searching for new raw materials. 

I went to Morocco a few years ago, and was so entranced with the oils there. Many of the ones I found are in my new Camellia Perfume. 

I go to Japan once a year to get the Yuzen papers that we wrap our perfume with, which I love. They have become an aroma M signature.

When I first started there weren’t any blogs, so the magazines were very important. I have been incredibly lucky and have a very thick press book. 

Now with the bloggers it is a different world. I love making new relationships and finding such talented writers and artists such as yourself! I have recently created a separate perfume line, House of Cherry Bomb, with fellow perfumer and scent sister, Alexis Karl. It has been so fun to collaborate with another perfumer and has brought new light into my own creations.

R: I find that your perfumes conjure up vivid colours, images and textures. I liked your description of each perfume being like a beautiful kimono that you slip on to enhance your mood, the season, or occasion.  Can you tell me about inspiration – what usually inspires you, such as art, seasons, music and so on?

M: Thank you so much! The Geishas, and the namesake of my perfume line, are a huge inspiration for me.  Their mystery, glamour and resplendent beauty are always part of each aroma M perfume. From rustling Kimono’s, to the feel of silk on your skin and the mesmerizing way the Geisha dance and walk; I try to translate all that poetry into my perfumes. 

I often think of the fleeting beauty of the Cherry Blossoms and how they have so much in common with perfume, and try to capture that essence in each fragrance. 

Also, I often imagine colors when creating a new perfume. Much like when imagining a painting and putting colors together. 

Aroma M perfumes are named after colors, so this plays a big part in my creative inspiration.

R: When I’ve created a painting, there are a few friends or family members I know will be honest yet kind, who I ask to ‘lend their eyes’ and give an opinion. Who do you ask to ‘lend their nose’?!

Maria McElroy and Alexis Karl

M: Yes, I am very lucky to have my partner in crime and House of Cherry Bomb collaborator Alexis Karl. She is always the first one I share my new perfumes with. I respect and trust her insight implicitly.

R: On that subject, would you like to collaborate with artists, poets, musicians, dancers etc - maybe a development of the Japanese incense and poetry idea?

M: I love the idea of a perfume project using Japanese incense and poetry. You are onto something! I have recently collaborated with very talented collage artist, India Evans, on an art installation that is part of a show that will be traveling from Rome to Naples and Berlin. 

The installation is a room filled with butterflies, all hand cut, floating and spiraling throughout the room, with the sound of fluttering wings and light breathing. It is a joint show of India’s work and her father’s John Evans, who recently passed away and was also a collage artist. The fragrance I created is an ambient scent, but I also created it to be worn as a personal fragrance. 

It was inspired by the love of father and daughter, Rome, and the essence of otherworldly butterflies. ‘Voluptuous Nostalgia’ perfume notes include amber, tonka bean, gardenia, muguet and violet. 

It will be available in limited edition in June. I will announce the details on the aroma M Perfumes Face Book page and website.

R: Some of the best perfumes seem to be inspired by a person or fictional character. Which person/character would you love to create a perfume for? It can be anyone you know, or famous - real, fictional, living or dead! And what would the perfume be like?

  

The first time I saw Max Ophuls masterpiece “The Earrings of Madam De”, I fell in love with the main character Louisa and felt a strange affinity with her. I have been known to have a streak of the dramatic in me, and Louisa most definitely is dramatic.  

The fainting spells aside, Madam De embodies beauty and elegance effortlessly. She is my dream alter ego. 

The film glitters and dazzles, and beneath the artifice, creates a heartbreaking love story that takes place in Vienna a century ago. The film is famous for its elaborate camera moves. 

It follows the lovers adorned with gowns, uniforms and of course jewelry. Dancing and dancing in grand ballrooms, the camera circles the couple until they are left all alone, their courtship told in a dance. 

What romance. We watch Louisa writing her Baron day after day, with no letter back. 

When they finally meet the Baron tells her “I always answered your letters my love, but I lacked the courage to mail them.” 

Then we see the un-mailed letters torn into bits and flung into the air to become snow- such is bold romance. The movie ends in tragedy as all great love stories do, deep in the misty mountains... a duel. We hear far off gunfire and see Louisa, and she watches from a far, then falls and faints in horror for possibly the last time.

 

The Perfume:

Top Notes: Tuberose, Gardenia, White Lotus and Labdanum.

Middle Notes: Violet, Orris Butter, Champaca, White Cognac. 

Base Notes: Choya Loban, Genet Absolute and Labdanum.R: 

Lastly, where can people buy your perfumes or perfume samples, whether in shops or online?

M: Aroma M perfumes are available on our website www.aromam.com and www.luckyscent.comhttp://www.luckyscent.com/, the Scent Bar in Los Angeles, Tiger Lily in San Francisco and Twisted Lily in New York.
                                               ~~~
And so concludes my emailed interview with Maria McElroy. I wish it could have been in person! I'm definitely going to watch Madame De; wonderful descriptions there. And that perfume! I'm swooning at the thought of it...voluptuous tuberose, tender violets, nostalgic orris. I confess I don't actually know what Genet is, or Choya Loban! But it's these details that make Maria a true creative soul of perfumery.

It's been an absolute pleasure to write up this interview, and who knows, one day we might get the opportunity for more creative collaborations, I just know they'd be full of inspiration and fun!

Aroma M ~Geisha Noire, Geisha Violet and Geisha Amber Rouge

I'm currently enjoying an exploration of perfumes by Aroma M, a niche New York-based perfume company owned by Maria McElroy, who is also the 'nose' and creator of its perfumes.

I was so inspired by Geisha Green that I wrote an entire review on it, which you can read Here. Not too long after I'd sampled this I ordered a bottle of Geisha Green for summer, and while ordering thought I'd send Maria McElroy a link to the review. She was thrilled with it - and I was thrilled she was thrilled! It's lovely to receive feedback both ways.

Maria generously included pure perfume oil samples of Geisha Violet, Geisha Amber Rouge and Geisha Noire with the order, so I was in perfume heaven for several days. Then it occurred to me that perhaps Maria might like to be interviewed, to which she most charmingly agreed, so watch this blog space for an up-coming interview with Aroma M founder and 'nose' Maria McElroy!

Geisha Violet

Spring Rain by Liitle Pear on Deviant Art

The weather is beginning to lift into something resembling spring here in Scotland, inspiring fresh perfume choices. All those rich ambers and dark vanillas begin to feel a bit stuffy...

What's needed is a metaphorical throwing-open of windows to let in fresh spring air.

So I was delighted to discover Aroma M's Geisha Violet - a perfume which immediately conjures the mood of spring with very pretty notes of violet and lilac.

The combination of violet and/or lilac can tend, in some perfumes, to smell like posh hand-soap, but there's a freshness in Geisha Violet that reminds me of the scent of crushed bluebells underfoot as you walk through woods in May

It makes me think of Dylan Thomas's The Force that through the Green Fuse Drives the Flower (the title at least, if not content of the poem!).



This chlorophyll infused greenness is just what's wanted as crocuses begin to emerge from the dark wintry earth.The sense is of  spring's tender new shoots and flowers, but there's also a softness and depth to Geisha Violet.

I'd never have guessed that this is thanks to the surprising note of cacao, but once I'd read up on the notes of Geisha Violet I could recognise its almost edible subtle sweetness. It's not a note of recognisable chocolate as such, so this is no gourmand; the fresh green/violet hues of spring form the aura of the perfume, but cacao softens and rounds it. And that's very romantic isn't it? - the idea of flowers and chocolate - Geisha Violet would be an inspired choice for Paris under the light rain showers and sunshine of spring, or of course in Japan during cherry blossom season!

Geisha Noire
I've already described how much I enjoyed Geisha Green, but Geisha Noire is probably a close runner-up if not equal.



It gives the immediate impression of a winter/autumn classic. It has been compared to Shalimar, for example, and there is a reminiscent deliciously deep vanilla in dry down - that torched brown sugar of creme brulee with underlying authentic vanilla pod.

But I'd say that Geisha Rouge is less powdery, more spicy in opening (I don't know all its notes but detect cloves and cinnamon). It feels darker, not floral, but it does share the smoke and the smooth tonka bean 'roundness' of Shalimar, and it has a gorgeous, subtly salty animalic ambergris.

It's without doubt a seductive perfume; more sensual than 'bombshell' in style though. The dry down is delicious and it lasts and lasts; perfect for a winter night's tryst, whether in or outdoors!

(Just a small note re' the two paintings above, which to me suggest Geisha Noire. Directly above is Ivan Kramskoi's Portrait of an Unknown Woman, which I remember featured on the cover of the Penguin classic version of Tolstoy's Anna Karenina. Above is Lovers in an Upstairs Room by Kitigawa Utamaro)

Geisha Amber Rouge

Where Geisha Noire is sensual rather than obviously provocative, Geisha Amber Rouge beckons us into femme fatale-like territory.

Honestly it's like having top grade warm Manuka honey drizzled onto your skin while nearby someone smokes on a hookah filled with rich Arabian tobacco!

This is how Jessica Rabbit would smell, if cartoons were to have a smell! I love Geisha Amber Rouge's rich decadence, and it's one of the most popular from Aroma M from what I gather, having read many reviews. (Though O Cha is perhaps the most popular, also worn by actress Patricia Arquett!

It's distinctly autumn-hued - and like all of Aroma M's perfumes that I've sampled so far, Geisha Amber Rouge immediately conjures up colours and images - a come-hither aura of deep russet velvets, candles and Turkish smoking dens - lovely on a dark and chilly autumn evening.

I look forward to interviewing Maria McElroy in the next few weeks, when I hope to find out more about what it takes to become a perfumer, and to explore the inspiration behind her beautifully evocative perfume creations!